By the time Georgia had finally vanquished Georgia Tech, 44-42, in the eighth overtime of the latest edition of their Clean, Old-Fashioned Hate rivalry game and I turned the television and lights out in our Tupelo, MS, motel, I was feeling good about the prospects of a full night’s sleep and being ready for the next day’s 2024 Iron Bowl between Auburn and Alabama at Bryant-Denny Stadium in Tuscaloosa.

Rested and relatively rejuvenated after what had been a rather travel heavy prior 36 hours (eight hours from home to Nashville, Thanksgiving night; four hours from Nashville to Oxford, MS; followed by another hour to Tupelo), I was looking forward to the relative ease of the two hour drive to Tuscaloosa followed by three hours post-game to Chattanooga, TN, where we planned to spend the night.

The best laid plans … but more on that in a bit;-)

Goofin’ on Elvis

It seemed almost sacrilegious to spend the night in Tupelo and not at least check out the Elvis Presley Homecoming Statue in Fairpark.

So, a spur of the moment decision before heading east, we paid a visit to Tupelo Fairpark in downtown. It was the site of the September 26, 1956 Elvis Presley Homecoming Concerts at the Alabama-Mississippi State Fair.

Born in Tupelo in 1935, the Presley family moved to Memphis when he was 13. His return to his hometown – not even three weeks after his first “Ed Sullivan Show” appearance – was a major to-do. Photographer Roger Marshutz captured an image of Elvis that became known as “The Hands” (above). It was the basis for Mississippi sculptor Bill Beckwith‘s statue of Presley that now stands in the same park.

^{Beckwith’s statue of Elvis rests in the middle of Tupelo’s Fairpark in downtown.}

In the event you’re interested, Elvis played two shows (an afternoon and an evening) that day. Songs played during both sets included Love Me Tender, I Was the One, I Got a Woman, Don’t be Cruel, and Hound Dog.

Gameday in Tuscaloosa

Traffic began to build along U.S. Highway 43 on the outskirts of Northport. It was far from untolerable (we were still several hours before kickoff) and it didn’t feel appreciably different from any other college town I’d driven into on a gameday.

As I crossed the Black Warrior River and turned left onto University Boulevard and noticed signs for Paul W. Bryant Drive and the University of Alabama I began to realize I wasn’t in ___________________ (fill in the blank: Ann Arbor, East Lansing, South Bend, Oxford) anymore.

Unlike our parking spot the day before in Oxford for the Egg Bowl that required a shuttle bus to Vaught-Hemingway Stadium I’d reserved a spot with the Clutch! app under a mile from Bryant-Denny. We parked in the Bryant Bank (sure, why wouldn’t the Hall of Fame Coach have his name on a bank!?!) overflow lot and, in so doing, were benefitting the Arts’n Autism non-profit. So, while I paid way more for a parking spot than I’d ever paid for an event ticket to see my alma mater (Eastern Michigan) play any sport I felt good about myself helping autistic students and their families.

During our stroll to the stadium area where we were going to meet my friend Scott and his family at a tailgate in the Quad, the crowds continued to build and the fun seemed to accelerate. There were some live bands playing, gas stations that allowed for restroom breaks (thanks!) and parking, and, of course, food and beverage.

By the time we arrived at the southeast corner of the stadium area, where Tuska – a 7-ton bronze elephant statue – rises above the masses, the crowd was teeming.

^{Some of the sights along the way, from left, Bryant-Denny Stadium looms in the distance, Tuska the 7-ton elephant, and crowds (including Nick Saban’s hat;-) wait for the Crimson Tide team to exit their buses and partake in the Walk of Champions.}

More Pre-Game Festivities

Similar to The Grove the day before at Ole Miss, pre-game tailgating festitivities at Alabama take place in the heart of campus. In the Crimson Tide’s case, it occurs on The Quad. At least, that’s where my friend Scott and his family were posting up … as were several thousand other well heeled fans.

Before we began the search for my friends, Wayne and I heard sirens blaring in the distance on Unviersity Boulevard and then saw a few motor coaches getting a police escort so we lingered at the corner of Stadium Drive to see, what we presumed, was the Crimson Tide’s arrival. It wasn’t exactly a Presidential Motorcade, but it wasn’t too far off.

After seeing the first several ‘Bama folks disembark (much like at Ole Miss the day before, there didn’t seem to be a standard dress) we continued on our quest to find the tailgate Scott was hanging at. It was a sea of humanity, but – thanks to a few texts and a photo he sent with his view – we found them.

I’d say the scene on ‘Bama’s Quad is on-par with Ole Miss’s Grove.

It was tent after tent resplendent with plenty of coolers, food, and televisions to monitor the action elsewhere around the country. I saw no chandeliers nor overly ornate set ups, but everyone was having a great time and the weather (much like it was the day before in Oxford) could not have been better!

^{From left, Alabama’s Million Dollar Band on the steps of the Gorgas Library for the Elephant Stomp; Doug, Scott, and Wayne during tailgating; fans mill about in The Quad pre-game; and a bi-partisan tailgate site.}

It was terrific to reconnect with Scott and meet his wife Kristin and sons Evan (S:3, E:49) and Brock (who both have/are attending Alabama). We learned from Scott that the tailgate spot we were enjoying (which belonged to one of his friends) goes for a few thousand dollars per game which, to me, is nuts!

After visiting for a good bit, enjoying a bite or two of the food and a beverage, we probed Evan and Brock on what else we should check out on The Quad before making our way into Bryant-Denny Stadium.

^{The current head coach of the Houston Texans, DeMeco Ryans, has his feet and cleats immortalized outside Denny Chimes as does Baltimore Ravens running back, Derrick Henry.}

Bryant-Denny Stadium

^{Clockwise from upper left, the Million Dollar Band spells out ‘Bama during its pre-game performance; the sun began to dip below the west grandstands late in the third quarter; crowds filled the streets around the stadium shortly before game time; a video board inside the stadium; longtime Alabama Coach Nick Saban had his name added to the Bryant-Denny Stadium this year; the concourses upstairs were a bit congested as we made our way to our seats.}

As I noted in the previous installment, unless a stadium or arena is steeped in history with some quirky architecture they’re pretty much just tools of functionality. While I probably should have felt something walking onto the grounds that were opened in 1929 and partially named for Hall of Fame Coach Paul “Bear” Bryant, I really didn’t. That might have been due, in part, to the herding of us spectators up the circular ramps to the upper level. In that regard, it was not unlike countless other venues I’ve visited through the years.

What was immediately noticeable when we arrived at our seats was the size of Bryant-Denny Stadium, especially when compared to Vaught-Hemingway Stadium at Ole Miss. Bryant-Denny has room for about 35,000 more spectators than “The Vaught” does and it was noticeable.

Also noticeable was that, unlike the day before, we were seated on the east side of the stadium which meant we faced a wicked bright (and warm!) sun for the better part of three quarters. Of course we’d learned lessons from the day before and erred on the side of an extra layer which meant spending the first half overheating.

Beyond witnessing the rest of the fans stream in and the band’s pregame performance – including the walking elephant (video here) – the highlight was a totally 2024 sort of thing as we were able to watch the University of Michigan’s 13-10 upset of second-ranked Ohio State in Columbus; the fourth straight year U-M has won The Game.

Our seat neighbors were, for the most part, amiable and pleasant. As the photos suggest, we were not close to the action, so we were seated in mixed company (e.g. fans of both ‘Bama and Auburn). The vast majority were in a festive mood. Auburn fans, fresh off an overtime home victory the week before against Texas A&M, had some newfound hope, but realized winning this rivalry game in Tuscaloosa was a tall order. And the Alabama fans, still stinging from the shellacking at Oklahoma two weeks prior, were fairly relaxed as their team’s chances of a College Football Playoff bid were remote so this was a game merely for state bragging rights.

Then our neighbors to my immediate right arrived:-(

Wearing Auburn gear, the two appeared to be in their early 20s and – at least the chap seated nearest me – slightly over-served. He was – to use a seasonal term – an angry elf. The fella was really interested in how long I’d been an Alabama fan; despite the fact I’d told him multiple times I was from Michigan and was just here to experience the rivalry. It seemed as though his sole purpose for coming to the game was to try and mix it up with Crimson Tide fans, none of whom were having any of it. However, when he gave the guy in front of me a bit of a shove after a positive Auburn play, well, I thought I might witness some fisticuffs.

We were all relieved when he left during the third quarter and did not reappear.

The Game

Yes, there was a game played during our time in Tuscaloosa. I’d love to report that it was an exciting down-to-the-wire affair like the memorable 2013 Kick Six, but, alas, it just sort of was.

Between the two teams the first five possessions included a lost Alabama fumble, a missed Auburn field goal, and a whopping 122 yards of total offense.

‘Bama’s junior quarterback, Jalen Milroe, scored on a keeper late in the first quarter and added another one midway through the second to secure a 14-6 halftime lead for the hosts who were never really threatened and wound up winning, 28-14.

The highlight of the game might well have been the battle of the bands at halftime. Alabama’s Million Dollar Band took us back to the 1980s with its set while the Auburn University Marching Band went with a tribute to Paris, France. Interestingly enough, both sets included Guns N’ Roses‘ “Paradise City.”

Which group did Axl, Slash, and the fellas proudest?

Dixieland Delight

A tradition at Bryant-Denny Stadium is the playing of (the band) Alabama‘s 1983 hit single, “Dixieland Delight,” during a second half timeout.

During our visit this occurred during a lengthy fourth quarter media timeout. As you might expect, it becomes a giant sing-along for the 100,000-plus who’ve packed the house. As you might also expect, the University of Alabama’s student section takes some liberties with some of the lyrics. We were on the opposite end of the stadium from the students so it was a bit tough to make out exactly what was being said, so I asked Scott’s son, Evan, to help me out. Here then, are the student’s sections additions to “Dixieland Delight.”

Lyric: Spend my dollar...
Student Response: On beer!
Lyric: Parked in a holler, 'neath the mountain moonlight...
Student Addition: Roll Tide!
Lyric: Hold her tight...
Student Addition: Against the wall!
Lyric: Make a little lovin'...
Student Response: All night!
Lyric: A little turtle dovin' on a Mason-Dixon night...
Student Response: F*&# Auburn!
Lyric: Fits my life...
Student Response: And LSU!
Lyric: Oh, so right...
Student Response: And Tennessee too!

Not-Quite Final Thoughts

Some not-quite final thoughts after spending the afternoon at Saban Field at Bryant-Denny Stadium on the campus of the University of Alabama in Tuscaloosa for the 2024 Iron Bowl:

• That pesky, red-clad media timeout fella with his digital timer sign was once again a nuisance and cut into the flow of the game on more than a couple of occasions. This time, however, we had seats on the aisle and I strategically chose a 3-minute, 30-second break to scurry out of our section during the second half to visit the men’s room. I’m delighted to report I was back in my seat before play had resumed:-)
• It’s probably not fair to compare our back-to-back SEC rivalry game experiences yet here goes:
  • The extra 35,000 fans in Tuscaloosa, along with the second deck around the stadium, certainly created a bigger feel and more raucous environment.
  • The quality of the in-game production was noticeably better for the Iron Bowl. This is unsurprising considering what I imagine is a sizable difference in the athletic department budgets between Alabama and Ole Miss. That said, in addition to the DJ at Bryant-Denny, there was a miked up cheerleader who helped with the chants and such, and everyone in the crowd seemed to know their role.
  • Both games were a bit snooze-inducing. While not the routs I witnessed during my prior football experience in Texas, neither game had the sizzle you’d love to see – or might expect – when big SEC rivals clash. The Egg Bowl had an 89-yard touchdown burst by senior tailback Ulysses Bentley IV, but aside from that there wasn’t much.
• Parking within walking distance of the stadium for the Iron Bowl was an enjoyable experience – pre-game, at least – to really get a sense of the vibe on our walk to the stadium. The downside, of course, is post-game and dealing with a ridiculous amount of traffic when attempting to leave the immediate area.
• A regret I have is not getting around the exterior of Bryant-Denny Stadium to see the statues of national champion coaches Wallace Wade, Frank Thomas, Bear Bryant, Gene Stallings, and Nick Saban, in the Walk of Champions plaza. It was so congested prior to the game with fans waiting to see the team’s arrival that we didn’t brave the throngs and then, following the game, our sole focus was attempting to get out of town.

The Drive

As noted above, the plan was to leave Tuscaloosa and head to Chattanooga for the night and stay at Wayne’s friend’s house. Todd and his family were out of state for the Thanksgiving holiday and he was kind enough to leave Wayne a key.

By the time we got to our car post-game it was nearing 6:30 and we began the Sisyphean task of leaving Tuscaloosa rapidly. Even after getting ourselves onto I-20 North toward Birmingham we continued to experience a rolling parking lot until very nearly to Birmingham.

We stopped at a Rest Area along I-59 between Birmingham and Chattanooga and Wayne volunteered to take the wheel and I readily accepted the offer.

Sometime around midnight (we lost an hour by changing time zones) we arrived at Todd’s place and I waited in the car for Wayne to give me the greenlight. He returned with an exasperated look on his face and indicated the key worked on the handle lock but not the deadbolt. He invited me to give it a shot, which I did, only to have the same results. In fact, it felt like the key was bending while in the deadbolt and the last thing either of us wanted to do was require Todd to call a locksmith upon arriving home.

So, we climbed back in the car and headed north on I-75. We (rather I) briefly considered a room for the night, but we wanted to be on the road by 5 a.m. to avoid Cincinnati Bengals traffic enroute. They had a 1 p.m. game against the Pittsburgh Steelers. The idea of paying any amount of money for a 4-hour stay seemed foolish or, at least, more foolish than driving through the night.

After stopping to refuel and get Wayne a large, fully caffeinated Coke, we proceeded north and he did his best impersonation of a long-haul trucker, finally handing over the keys shortly before dawn near Sidney, OH. Along the way, we encountered a Winter Weather Advisory near Lexington, KY, where a slushy wintry mix was falling and made the left lane nearly impassable.

I dropped Wayne off and then pulled into my garage about 9:30 a.m. – some 14 hours after we’d begun the process of leaving Tuscaloosa – dropped my gear in the laundry room, said hello to my wife, Carol, and son, Jake, and poured myself into bed for a few hours of some badly needed slumber.

• Previously: Doug and Wayne’s Egg-cellent Adventure