I’ve made no bones about the fact that baseball was my first love. It was the first organized sport I competed in, the first sport I remember seeing on our home’s television, the first professional sport I attended in person, and – no doubt – none of this happened by accident. My father was a huge baseball fan as a youngster and his love of the sport and its myriad statistics and historical benchmarks only increased as he grew older.
It should then come as no surprise that the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum in Kansas City, MO, made my list of places to visit as part of my Around the World in 80 Sporting Events retirement project. Nor, for that matter, should it surprise anyone that my wingman for this trip was my dad who’s always wanted to visit this museum.
A Happy Surprise
Clockwise from upper left, after entering the turnstile guests at the NLBM are greeted by this space which includes the Buck O’Neil statue peering through the backstop at the Field of Legends; just some of the fourth graders touring the museum; Buck’s view of the Field of Legends; a Louisville Slugger throne adorned with Buck and Satchel Paige’s faces is available for photo ops in the main foyer; the exterior of the NLBM.
Clearly I’d not done the type of research on the NLBM like I should have because my father and I were pleasantly surprised to learn the typical $10 admission fee was being waived for the month of February (Black History Month) thanks to the generosity of the Kansas City Royals Foundation.
What comes with the free admission during February – at least on the Tuesday we visited – was school field trips … lots and lots of field trips.
In fact, even before we entered the museum one of the employees provided us with a full-throated warning: There’s going to be a lot of fourth graders in there.
I’ll say this for the fella, he was not lying.
That said, the youngsters provided a level of exuberance that might not otherwise be expected at a museum such as this on an otherwise innocuous midweek winter morning. And, as a now-retired fourth grade teacher, the influx of youthful energy was not as oft-putting as it might have been to others. What only an ex-teacher could know is that the field trip would have only a fixed amount time in the museum because of lunch, transportation, and the need to be back to school before dismissal.
And, almost as soon as the rambunctiousness reached its crescendo, it was over, and my father and I enjoyed the museum for our final hour with only a half-dozen or so other guests touring.
Touring Turned Topsy-Turvy
A look at the beginning exhibits in the NLBM. The statue of Rube Foster (lower left) matches those of the players in the Field of Legends. The quote from then-MLB Commissioner Kennesaw Mountain Landis (a known segregationist) is a powerful one. A Kansas City Monarchs jersey is visible as is one of Detroit Stars’ star, Turkey Stearnes’, bats.
The natural first stop at the NLBM is the Grand Stand Theatre to watch a broad overview of the history of the Negro Leagues, some of the important names to be familiar with, and how the sacrifices made by those early Black Major League Baseball players paved the way for the heroics of countless others through the years. All of which is narrated by the inimitable voice of James Earl Jones.
Alas, as I poked my head into the theatre it was completely crammed with 9 and 10-year-olds.
Onward!
As so often happens at these places, my dad and I charted our own courses for discovery. In this case, especially, it made sense. I’m only familiar with the names and faces of most of these players from the history books. Many, if not most, were players he was familiar with growing up in his small Indiana hometown as he discovered baseball via radio broadcasts from places like Chicago, Detroit, Cleveland, and Cincinnnati and in print whenever he was able to get his hands on The Sporting News.
The museum is set up with displays on both the visitor’s left and right and moves – initially, at least – in chronological order from the early days of independent Black baseball teams to the work of former player Rube Foster and his organizing of the Negro National League (which occurred just up the street from the NLBM at the Paseo YMCA in 1920).
There are plenty of artifacts to linger over, photos to view, and quotations to ponder as one moves through this part of the museum.
The Newsroom
From left, the room focused on the news media’s coverage of the Negro Leagues had newspapers plastering the walls; a vintage typewriter that might have been used by reporters of this era; and information about one of the greatest Black sportswriters of all time, Wendell Smith.
No, it wasn’t a bona fide newsroom in the museum, but a separate room that had been set aside to explore the impact of Black media on the Negro Leagues and its players. It’s a subject near to my heart for a couple of reasons: First, I’m a former sportswriter who worked in press boxes and covered sporting events for the better part of a decade; second, my culminating paper for my History of Journalism course at Eastern Michigan University years ago was about the news media’s coverage of Jackie Robinson‘s integration of MLB.
A video played on a loop in this space chronicling the media’s coverage – primarily that of the Black-owned newspapers such as the The Pittsburgh Courier and the The Chicago Defender – which had a couple benches for guests to rest their feet and enjoy.
My entry into this space began well enough, but soon I was surrounded by field trippers who – I can only assume – saw a screen and some seats and felt like it was something they should experience. And by experience, I mean sitting and chatting up their buddies.
It was my lone negative on sharing the NLBM with the students on this day. It was the sort of space in a museum I’d likely linger at and absorb, but at that moment, my primary desire was to move to a quieter place and, sadly, I did not return.
Before leaving, however, I captured a photo about of The Courier‘s Wendell Smith who was one of the most notable Black sportswriters of the era. He was also the personal consigliere to Robinson during his first two spring trainings, his season with the Montreal Royals, and his first year with the Brooklyn Dodgers. Smith was paid by the Dodgers’ organization to travel with Robinson while also chronicling the star’s accomplishments for The Courier and, ultimately, co-authoring the first Robinson biography, Jackie Robinson: My Own Story. If you’ve ever seen the Robinson biopic, “42,” you likely have a passing familiarity with Smith.
Legends
Clockwise, from left, Josh Gibson was a larger-than-life Negro Leagues player who never had the opportunity to get to MLB; nor did Buck O’Neil as a player, but he’s one of the most-beloved of the era who became the first Black MLB coach and was a constant ambassador for the game; Satchel Paige did make it to the Majors (though at an advanced age) and his legend only grew upon arriving; this image notes the impact Negro Leaguers had on the National League during an 11-season span from 1949-59.
Following my time in the media space, I continued into the area of the museum that turns its attention more to the accomplishments of individual players. There are special exhibits dedicated to Satchel Paige, Buck O’Neil, the barrier breakers (each original MLB team’s first Black player is highlighted), as well as nods to the NFL, NBA, and NHL’s first Black players.
- NFL: Fritz Pollard and Bobby Marshall played in the 1920 before pro football re-segregated itself. Following the early 1930s, the first Black players were Woody Strode, Kenny Washington, Marion Motley, and Bill Willis who debuted in 1946.
- NBA: Earl Lloyd, Chuck Cooper, and Nat “Sweetwater” Clifton all signed NBA contracts during the 1950 season. Lloyd was the first to see game action, a day before Cooper and four days before Clifton (who was actually a former Negro League baseball player).
- NHL: Willie O’Ree was the first in 1955 with the Boston Bruins and, among the four major North American professional sports leagues, is the lone surviving color barrier breaker. O’Ree is currently 89 years old. For further viewing, check out the terrific documentary about ongoing challenges further integrating hockey, “Black Ice.”
Clockwise from upper left, a chronological list of significant accomplishments by Black MLB players; a large display case included several baseball cards of some of the earliest Black Major Leaguers; Ozzie Virgil was the first Black player to in my hometown’s Detroit Tigers’ history; information about the NBA and NHL barrier breakers; my dad’s a longtime Chicago Cubs fan and this tells the story of Ernie Banks‘ arrival; and a look at some the first Black professional football players.
Baseball Hall of Famers
To be clear, the NLBM is a museum not a hall of fame. It does, however, pay tribute to those former Negro League players who have been enshrined in the National Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, NY. Near the end of the exhibit area – and before visitors get to the Field of Legends – there are two locker banks that feature a replica jersey of the players Negro Leagues jersey, a replica of the players Hall of Fame plaque, and – in some instances – other career artifacts. The lights are low in this area and the NLBM treats this space as sacred ground much the same way the plaque gallery in Cooperstown is a reverential experience for visitors.
There are currently 44 total Baseball Hall of Fame inductees with Negro Leagues connections, but it’s clear in visiting the NLBM that number should and, frankly, must increase. There are so many who excelled at the game for years and would have, no doubt, thrived in a MLB uniform had they been given the opportunity. And the excuse that we’re unsure what the level of competition was and/or we don’t have definitive statistics is now bunk thanks to the incredible research work by many that is now warehoused at Baseball Reference as part of “The Negro Leagues are Major Leagues” initiative.
Clockwise from upper left, a few of the ex-Negro Leaguer HoF lockers: Ray Brown, Cool Papa Bell, Pete Hill, Satchel Paige, Turkey Stearnes, and Bullet Rogan.
Geddy Lee Doubles as a Rockstar for the NLBM
Before arriving at the Field of Legends there is an impressive showcase of Negro Leaguer autographed baseballs. The collection of nearly 200 baseballs was donated to the NLBM by Geddy Lee of the rock band, Rush, back in 2008.
It was goosebump-generating to view these signatures from men (and women) affiliated with the Negro Leagues dating back more than a century; many of whom likely had no formal education and, thus, no training on how to even sign their names.
Clockwise from upper left, a section of the Geddy Lee Collection of Autographs; the signature of Cool Papa Bell, the signatures of Ray Dandridge and Judy Johnson, a long shot of the collection, and the signature of Don Newcombe.
Field of Legends
The grand finale of the NLBM tour is a stop at the Field of Legends. It’s visible through the chicken wire at the beginning and at various other spots during a visitor’s tour, but not until you’ve winded your way through the entirety of the exhibits are you permitted onto the field.
In all likelihood, it’s the one part of the NLBM that most baseball fans recognize. Many of the promotional images (rightfully) feature images of the Field and if you’ve ever seen NLBM President Bob Kendrick being interviewed or filming a piece for social media, he’s often times found in this area.
I’m not going to include each statue here (you’ll need to check out the gallery on my Event 12 page to see them all) but here’s who you’ll see manning the positions should you find yourself in the Field of Legends. With the exception of umpire Bob Motley, all of them are Baseball Hall of Famers:
- Pitcher – Satchel Paige
- Catcher – Josh Gibson
- Firstbaseman – Buck Leonard
- Secondbaseman – Pop Lloyd
- Thirdbaseman – Ray Dandridge
- Shortstop – Judy Johnson
- Leftfielder – Cool Papa Bell
- Centerfielder – Oscar Charleston
- Rightfielder – Leon Day
- Batter – Martin Dihigo
- Umpire – Bob Motley
Clockwise from upper left, Buck Leonard mans first base; Bob Motley calls balls and strikes on batter Martin Dihigo with catcher Josh Gibson; Leon Day patrols right field; Buck O’Neil looks on from behind the backstop; and Oscar Charleston is positioned in center field.
No, the bronze statues are not life size – they’re referred to as near life-size – but it certainly provides a sense of these players when you’re able to stand next to them and observe the detail in the artwork, most of which were crafted by Kansas artist John Forsythe and his team at Veritas Bronze.
A Few Hours Well Spent
My father and I didn’t reconnect until we’d both emerged from the small NLBM Extra Innings gift shop. As we made our way along 18th street in front of the neighboring American Jazz Museum back toward our vehicle, this quick reflection from my dad said it all.
I enjoyed this visit every bit as much as my visits to the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown.
Jerry Hill, February 2025